Somewhere in the world, the person that made the T-shirt on your back is making another, then another, then another. But do you know what you could discover if you follow the thread? Perhaps trace it to the machine that punches thousands of stitches per minute? There you might find small, tired hands, often young enough to belong to a child, pushing garment after garment through the throat at all hours.
The fact is, we don’t know enough about fashion as an industry. Shockingly, this statement barely scratches the surface. Under the roof of buildings that wouldn’t come close to being fit for purpose in a civilized world, the air is filled with toxic substances, thick enough to chew, someone is making that $5 tee. The cotton for that tee? It was picked in a field being sprayed with harmful substances under sun stroke inducing conditions that cause lasting damage. Someone is risking their life picking that cotton. There is a chance that this someone wouldn’t fit into an adult-sized garment for many years.
What Is Child Labour?
Although the definition is often clouded by differing laws country by country, there are simple ways to define child labor. In truth, any work that prevents a child from getting an education can be labeled child labor.
The work is often dangerous, and taxing on both the mind and the body. According to the ILO, the minimum age convention of 1973 states that any minor work by a child under the age of 12 is child labor. Then, heavier work by children aged 12 – 14, and hazardous work by children 15 – 17 are all considered to be child labor.
Child labor comes in many forms. Low-skilled work often requires someone to be taken advantage of and some of the labor children undertake around the world includes making bricks, weaving, prostitution, child soldiers, factory work, and farming.
The last two are going to be part of a continual theme as we explore the fashion industry’s impact on the children forced into labor around the world.
So what do we know? And what can we do?
Fashion United highlighted the fact that children as young as 14 are working overtime in factories across Myanmar, an emerging manufacturer of clothes, supplying many high street brands. It is shameful and sad to realize the overtime must be crucially tempting when being paid half the legal wage which is already less than 50 cents per hour.
The struggle of helping a family put regular meals on the table becomes stark and real as many children lie about their age to increase their hours at the machine. Pay them a pittance so they have to work more. This isn’t a lost childhood, it is stolen.
Fast Fashion / Low Skilled Work
With approximately 100 million impacted by child labor (https://www.unicef.org/reports/childrens-rights-in-garment-and-footwear-supply-chain-2020) be it working or having parents who work in the fashion industry, the issue isn’t scarce, perhaps scattered. What is to blame? Circumstance? Corruption? There are many factors, but it is no coincidence that the demand for cheap clothes is met with young blood and blisters. Part of the reason is that it is considered low-skilled work, where one can be fast-tracked into making Fast Fashion.
Fast Fashion is as it sounds. Clothes are pushed out hastily, replicated from other designs that are proving popular at double-quick time. There are micro seasons throughout the year that means new trends are created, new clothes delivered more frequently so stock isn’t piling, but more clothes are pushed around the globe.
When pushing the hanger on the rail to find the right size of that $5 tee, few contemplate how it is that a garment can be so cheap in the Western world. To make a profit on a t-shirt so cheap, it starts with using low-grade cotton, adding cheap fibers, and making sure the production costs are kept as low as possible. There is also an import duty to consider but it is telling that one thing that does not add much to the cost of the production of a T-shirt, is the labor. For most, this is a matter of adding a few cents to the price of production. Because children are often paid less than adults, the low impact of wages on cost makes it seem doubly wrong.
Almost half the victims of child labor are aged between 5 – 11. Their age is a contributor to the type of low skill, yet laborious and dangerous work they will be undertaking. A victim of circumstance, a victim of being young and innocent.
Fast Fashion Brands
The surge of demand for the latest trends, especially when they are changing faster than some tastes, is an issue.
It is possible to find details of the fashion brands still using sweatshops, some use child labor. Although this list could change over time, with some growing a conscience, others are not doing enough. Some of the brands mentioned on the above link include the likes of Adidas, ASOS, Gap, H&M, and more.
Some of the ways people are being exploited involve factory workers sweating in unsafe conditions, child labor in Asia, Turkey, and beyond, 16 hour working days for a pittance, physical and sexual abuse. It is an ugly list, and it goes on.
It should be noted that some of these brands are improving the transparency of their supply chain. A promising sign, and one that shows certain brands are not afraid to be held accountable. The more common this becomes, the better for all children and the prevention of child labor.
It is difficult to gather information on how much cotton a child will pick in a day. But according to CHILD LABOUR IN COTTON briefing, in some parts of the world such as China and Uzbekistan among others, children are punished if they do not meet their daily target of 50 kg of cotton a day. Since it takes approximately 3 kg of cotton to make a men’s T-shirt, this daily amount would be enough for approximately 16 – 17 T-shirts a day.
The price of a T-shirt from these parts of the world is not a positive reflection of a fair wage and is synonymous with hazardous conditions in a venue where no child should have to spend their days.
The minimum wage in many countries barely passes a dollar an hour, in Bangladesh, it is close to 50 cents an hour. Even those more generous pay barely enough to live in any form of comfort. If they did, it might provide the chance to change those circumstances, get an education, and stay far away from exploitation.
So, the winner of fast fashion is the consumer. Being able to pick up a T-shirt that can be cheaper than a coffee doesn’t sound right, but it is possible. For there to be a winner, there is always a loser. The manufacturers are still in business, even though they are selling garments around the world at incredibly cheap rates. So, the people losing out are those in the fields, working hard hours, or nearly falling asleep at the machine as they stitch hundreds of garments a day for little pay. Their loss is very much the consumer’s gain.
It is estimated that only a 1 to 3 percent increase in wages would provide a living wage and an environment that is safe to work in. This would allow for a more comfortable life for the parents of the children victimized by child labor, meaning there would be no need for a child to have to work. The cycle can be broken, but change must be implemented, and new practices and laws passed.
Cotton:
In many parts of the world, if you find a cotton farm, you can find child labor. The fact is children who have only been able to put one foot in front of the other for a few years are part of the process. Too young to work the machines, they are in the factory processing cotton, or fields, picking it for long, excruciating hours. At that age, children in the West are playing Hopscotch with their friends, safe from the wickedness of having been dealt a card that needs to be punched upon entry and exit for long hours in a grey existence.
The problem is that there are numerous ways a child can be put to work, and the different stages of cotton production are hard work that unsurprisingly does not pay well. In some parts of the world, children are paid to plow the fields or spend hours weeding and removing pests. All in the presence of fields riddled with pesticides that cause lasting damage.
The next step is to harvest cotton. The image of fluffy cotton, as light as a cloud is not a true reflection of the heavy sacks that are tossed over a young shoulder as it loads a truck in the scorching heat. It is hard work for anyone, especially children who have no place in the field.
Then, there is ginning. No safer than in the field, the stifling conditions and air contaminated by white cotton dust the lack of protective clothing often leads to serious respiratory issues. The same young hands are also used to push cotton onto the machines. With the same awful conditions and workers’ rights around the world, they are little more than a young cog in the machine in the cotton production process.
Older children may also be found on the manufacturing side. So, there is no part of the process that is safe for children, or safe of children.
In Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan, people in their hundreds and thousands are being forced out of their normal jobs into the cotton fields. Many of these are children. These are two of the world’s biggest exporters of cotton, and the conditions and intensive labor is enough to cause death for many.
This is not limited to a couple of countries. Half of the world’s child labor occurs in Africa. Others such as China, Pakistan, Brazil, India, and Turkey have been found to use child labor and are responsible for most of the world’s cotton production. These children are not even being paid the minimum wage a lot of the time, and start as early as the age of seven.
In some way, all children working in the cotton industry are trapped. Whether it be by poverty, a low wage, or a burden of having to help the family as soon as they are ‘able’. Bonded labor is ripe in India (but not exclusive to it). This is where debt is used to anchor a family, forcing them into offering their children for labor as a form of repayment.
Again, this is where the cycle of poverty keeps turning. To feed their loved ones, a family may need to take out a loan. The only form of payment these people want is during the cotton-picking season. A child is put to work, their freedom removed. The debt may never be fully paid and passed down generations so the family tree is always bearing fruit for someone else. They are unable to change their fortune.
The Consequences of Child Labor
It is hard to break the cycle of poverty if one is deprived of the education to escape it. Those working overtime picking cotton in the searing heat, or pushing garment after garment through a sewing machine do so at the expense of learning about shapes, how to write, history, maths, and learning what kind of world exists beyond the fields and factories. It is enough to remind us that the most we ever had to bemoan were that maths was hard. The discovery of the conditions and labor involved for others is enough to humble any complaint about where to place a fraction into silence.
The impact on a young child’s education is not trivial. There are numerous reports of children amid child labor seeing other children in their school uniforms, wishing their day involved learning and play. They can only dream of not having to risk their lives in horrific conditions where the long-term impact of no education and hard labor is going to eradicate opportunity for another generation.
The strain on a developing body and mind is another factor that is impossible to measure and comprehend. A report published by the EJ Foundation (https://ejfoundation.org/resources/downloads/The-Children-behind-Our-Cotton-FINAL_small.pdf) found the working conditions in cotton fields are some of the most hazardous of any industry. Workers are exposed to long, tedious hours in the fields, often during and immediately after pesticide spraying. This exposure can be fatal and even when it is not, there is a good chance that it will make both adults and children seriously ill. The same report comments on the impact of such chemicals on young organs, often resulting in respiratory problems and worse.
Then there is the pay. It is hard to escape poverty when you are drowning in it. No one can be expected to hold their head above water when the pay is so little, not even hours of overtime can put enough food on the table for many families. How can anyone be expected to change their circumstances if it is impossible to afford to do so?
For many, beatings and sexual abuse are common. The value of human life in some places is truly shocking. Children are seen as malleable, they comply without a word, yet are the subject of the same physical abuse they see their mothers often suffering. Since different studies have found women in the factories are no stranger to verbal abuse, a large portion asked about the subject saying they had been beaten.
You might hear people question the information. Perhaps the abuse is opportunist, a rare occurrence? Maybe the culture is different? There is no excuse, the only thing for certain is that it is unacceptable. Women and children have had their rights and dignity stripped from them, and are too scared to lose the job they dearly need to speak out.
How Is It Allowed To Happen?
Child labor isn’t something that just happens. It takes more than the exploitation of an innocent child. It can be close to the law in some countries, whilst others exploit the system. An auditor visiting a factory site will often be shown what the owners want them to. This means moving those underage out of sight. On other occasions, many impoverished workers, children or not, do not have access to the relevant papers, so proving their age is not possible. A child desperate for money to put food on the family table may lie about their age.
Sometimes, it is the lack of opportunity that makes it so difficult. Where do families go when the cycle of a lack of education and opportunity repeats? Low-skilled work does not pay well or fairly considering the labor involved. The law is often a factor, and it is not enforced adequately. There is little to discourage those taking advantage of a family’s plight which means many do not stay within the law.
In other countries, workers’ rights are repressed anyway. This means unfair pay, child labor, and poor conditions are part of the job. For those in the middle of it, children included, there is nowhere to go for effective change. Some are too afraid to speak out, their pittance of pay is too valuable.
In other places, there is no such thing as free education, or getting it is near impossible. Schools can be too far to feasibly reach, whilst some children who are tired from their working life are unable to concentrate and are not getting the full educational experience they deserve. Then there are the pesticides from the fieldwork. Enough to make anyone ill, children are in pain and suffering as they try to squeeze what they can from their education, but have to miss many days through illness. And so there is a severe lack of opportunity. Poverty never ends and is passed from generation to generation like an unwanted heirloom.
Child Labor Goes Unpunished Too Often
Even after raids on factories, and scores of children found working in squalor, the conviction rate is pitiful around the world. To put a spotlight on India again, the 1990s saw the introduction of the Bonded Labor Law (https://www.hrw.org/reports/india0103.pdf)). It was designed to put pressure on those in the industries exploiting children in this way. What followed were raids. Sounds promising? The conviction rate was pitiful.
Over the years, countries like India have taken measures to work against child labor. The Child Labor Amendment Act of 2012 was a step in the right direction but was far from perfect. It was introduced to stop children from worrying about certain conditions and occupations, whilst regulating conditions in other areas of work for children.
According to PRS India (https://prsindia.org/billtrack/the-child-labour-prohibition-and-regulation-amendment-bill-2012), this included the prohibition of children under 14 working in the power loom industry. The consequences were made more severe with higher fines and imprisonment of up to two years. The loopholes, however, are cause for concern. The Act does not apply to members of the same family when working after school or on the holidays. So, if a family employs their child to do the work, the same laws do not apply. This is a challenge for anyone trying to enforce such regulations in India since it is difficult to prove who is and who is not related. A loophole exists (https://www.internationalaffairs.org.au/australianoutlook/new-legislation-on-child-labour-in-india/) that protects “uncles” from prosecution when found to be involved in child labor. Why would such a loophole be allowed when it can exploit the exploited with such ease?
Also, the Act neglects the common place where child labor is often found, the field. This means nothing changed in terms of agricultural work. It is the same dangerous work that involves the same strong pesticides, long hours, and dangerous tools. For many, the measures are still a step in the right direction. But why have the fields, one of the workplaces so ripe with child labor, been neglected?
Perhaps it is that when more hands are put to work, it unburdens the welfare system, or that it is easier to turn a blind eye than police something that is so ripe in a population swelling over 1.3 billion. In India, over 96,000 children go missing each year (https://globalmissingkids.org/awareness/missing-children-statistics/). A sobering statistic. The struggle to keep children safe around the world is very real.
Bangladesh
Mostly spread across underprivileged countries the world, 150 billion garments per year are made. Bangladesh is one of the most productive, and cheapest making it popular with fast fashion brands. It is also the venue for the unfortunate collapse of the Rana Plaza building which took the lives of 1,100 workers. There were more than twice as many injuries and came as a result of overcrowded conditions, too many floors of workers, too much equipment. It was making garments for some of the most popular high street brands such as Mango and Benetton.
In truth, this could have been several factories, which is why there has been a response to make conditions better. Still, let’s not forget that child labor is rife in Bangladesh. Not only that, but there are many reports of children being mistreated in the workplace, sometimes tortured to death (https://www.theguardian.com/world/2016/jul/25/bangladeshi-child-labourer-tortured-to-death-at-textile-mill). This particular case led to the authorities raiding the factory, and 27 children were rescued and returned to their families.
The Positive Statistics
Because of the efforts of those shining a spotlight on the exploitation of children in the workplace, the numbers are encouraging. It is estimated that child labor has seen a decrease of approximately 38% in the last decade.
In 2000, the number of children working in child labor reached 246 million, decreasing to 152 million in 2016. (https://www.ilo.org/global/about-the-ilo/newsroom/news/WCMS_766351/lang–en/index.htm). So, the trend was promising, but major world events tend to hinder progress, and recent history has created strife in many ways.
The good news is far outweighed by the bad. This only means there should be more fuel for the fire when it comes to the fight to end child labor. Still, the signs were positive, but then the world went into lockdown…
COVID-19 and Child Labor
Blind eyes started to blink into focus because of those numbers, a focus on a part of the world that deeply needs attention. However, the COVID-19 pandemic has reversed these positive statistics, causing an increase in the number of child labor. An increase in poverty and job loss puts more pressure on the family, and more children have been sent to work as a result. Not only this, but schools closing has contributed to this. (this but schools closing played an additional part in amplifying the problem.)
Because jobs are becoming increasingly in demand, employers have the upper hand, even more so than usual. The result is always the same, further exploitation, and not just of children, but workers of all genders and ages.
The future is uncertain, but the lasting effect on the global economy is predicted to only worsen. The manufacturing industry is already feeling the strain as the whole supply chain is reeling from the near halt of production demand.
The impact on education is going to be severe, especially in underprivileged locations.
Some 24 million children are predicted to drop out of school (https://reliefweb.int/sites/reliefweb.int/files/resources/20201102_acaps_thematic_series_review_of_covid-19_impacts_on_global_education.pdf) as a result of the pandemic. In the short term, this is, of course, a tragedy, but the long-term impact could be even more severe. Those trying to make the most of the opportunities they have will find they are faced with fewer options when it comes to employment, and their future is being taken from under them.
Expect their children to grow up in poverty, which puts them at risk of working in adverse conditions, long before they should. The other pressures the pandemic will enhance are estimated to involve 13 million additional child marriages by 2030. Also, not being in school means millions will not have access to free meals, potentially their only nutrition of the day.
UNICEF (https://data.unicef.org/resources/covid-19-and-child-labour-a-time-of-crisis-a-time-to-act/) has created an agenda to support children and families during this time. They are calling for a global reaction to ensure the pandemic doesn’t end up impacting the rights of children.
How To Determine Where Your Clothes Come From?
Sometimes, it is easier to look at the country of production, but this isn’t always a true reflection of a garment made in dignified conditions, by adults on a fair wage.
Fair Trade clothing is a good place to start. Of the 10 principles (https://sewport.com/learn/fair-trade-clothing), number 5 puts a focus on how no clothing that can call itself a Fair Trade product can use child labor or forced labor. This makes it easier to find clothes that are ethically made, and have never corrupted a child’s hands at any part of the process.
This is also a useful benchmark for ensuring producers have not been taken advantage of, are getting a fair wage, and are made in good working conditions with a focus on respecting the environment.
When you are unsure about how your clothes are produced, Fair Trade clothing is a trustworthy sign that they have been made ethically. It also promotes slow fashion, meaning it takes longer to make high-quality clothes. In turn, they last longer, and there is less of a need to be scanning the rails of the latest lines that are pushing the last stockpile away, even if it arrived just a few weeks previous.
The problem is, shopping for Fair Trade clothing isn’t the easiest. This is because there is a flood of fashion, and not enough brands promote Fair Trade clothes and ethics. Still, with a little research, it is possible to find a new favorite. There is always the issue of sub-par conditions for work, even if fair trade cotton is used, so dig a little deeper to get to the truth.
Some of the most reputable Fair Trade clothing brands include the likes of Patagonia, Pact, and Prana amongst others. Buying from these and like-minded brands means you are protecting children in vulnerable parts of the world, and rewarding companies and communities who are trying to make a positive change in the world.
Alternatively, some people like to source the fabric themselves, and make garments with a sewing machine at home. This is simpler as one only has to track how ethical the material is, and the labor is done without any danger to children.
Who Is Helping?
It might be impossible to eradicate child labor, but this only means that the fight will never end. Thankfully, numerous organizations are making a positive impact on the world. Here is a link (https://www.humanrightscareers.com/issues/organizations-end-child-labor/) to some of the organizations making a difference. These include the likes of Stop Child Labor Coalition who help provide information on child labor and raise awareness. They also help put pressure on policy changes to the benefit of those being exploited.
Other websites such as The Good Shopping Guide (https://thegoodshoppingguide.com/fashion-retailers/) are a valuable resource for tracking how production lines and the supply chain of different brands rank in terms of being ethical. This means no child labor, and they provide an index score to show how ethical retailers are. With food and drink brands, energy providers, and health and beauty just a few of the other industries that are judged by their ethics, it is a good place to start for anyone wishing to be more mindful about the ethical journey of a product.
Then, there are large organizations like Save The Children who actively help protect children and education communities. Thankfully, there is a greater focus on child labor this year, 2021 is the International Year For The Elimination of Child Labor.
International Year For The Elimination of Child Labor
So, the world is broken, we have let down our children, and no one is doing anything about it, right? Fortunately for those lucky enough to benefit, these children are not without a voice in 2021.
The UN announced that 2021 would be the year to end child labor. Putting pressure on governments and ending the most heinous forms of child labor, including recruiting young boys and girls as soldiers.
The International Labor Organization and Alliance 8.7, an organization focused on ending child labor, have launched the initiative. The intention is to put a greater focus on both a legislative sense which can provide real change and pragmatic solutions that make a difference.
Part of their work involves creating roadmaps for different regions so that they have the tools and knowledge to help reduce child labor in the community. By joining forces and taking a stand, the idea is that awareness will increase.
With many organizations working to decrease child labor, the benefit of this initiative is that it pulls everyone together, and assembles greater resources. The snowball effect of stakeholders, organizations, and individuals is going to create an avalanche, and help to significantly reduce child labor in 2021.
Their website (https://endchildlabour2021.org/take-action/) encourages others to make pledges, and take action. Anyone with a blog, YouTube channel, or podcast is key. If you have an audience, raising awareness of child labor, and this organization is one of the most positive uses possible.
The goal is to end child labor by 2025 and put a stop to human trafficking, forced labor, and modern slavery by 2030.
World Day Against Child Labour
This falls on 12th June every year. This year the ILO and UNICEF will be releasing new information and estimates on the statistics, as well as the impact of COVID-19.
It is a time for partners to provide updates on the progress of their pledges and spread the word even further. It is supported by a week of action where millions of people will be able to put a focus on the struggle of child labor around the world and help to make the reach stretch even further.
The day is not specific to 2021 and has been observed by UN members since 2002.
How Can Companies Make It Count?
Words are cheap, and actions speak volumes. With 2021 showing signs that the pandemic will only cause more poverty, actions need to be loud.
For the fashion industry, this means carrying out proper checks on their supply chains. There are pledges that companies can take to ensure that they are doing more to prevent child labor from being profitable. This involves a focus on compliance with the law involving child labor, and international standards. They are all found within the business guidelines for ending child labor. (https://unglobalcompact.org/take-action/business-actions-to-eliminate-child-labour). So, businesses need to check the working conditions, who are working within the conditions, of every new contract they plan to sign.
One of the pledges is for companies to introduce apprenticeship programs for children of 15 – 17 years of age. This provides an option for those in this age bracket as a safe environment with the proper training, is always preferable to the dangerous conditions of a lot of child labor.
The basic principle is for all industries to show that they care about human rights. It doesn’t seem like a lot to ask, but blind eyes are easy to turn when there is a shiny penny reflecting the light.
A lot of the time, auditors don’t get adequate time to check a business premise, this is being highlighted, and needs to change. Of course, this is more likely when the focus is on such practices. The proper recording of names and contact information of any children found in these factories and other environments is also important.
Companies can gain ethical accreditation, from the Good Shopping Guide and other reputable sources. This can help consumers make decisions based on brands being held accountable for their supply chain.
What The World Is Saying
We live in a time of influence. From celebrity culture to social media influencers, people love to know what other people are doing. They like to mirror their looks, actions, and often their beliefs. Since it is easy to find information on child labor in the fashion industry, you would have thought that the world is screaming until their throat is sore about the injustice.
Well, it is surprisingly difficult to find incensed celebrities speaking out about child labor. There are some, especially in other exploitative areas such as sex trafficking and modern slavery which deserve to have as much awareness spread as possible.
Still, it is not one person’s responsibility to take a stand, it is something we must all take ownership of.
With the focus of 2021 being to end child labor, it is telling that there is not enough being said about it. Ask your friends and see if they had any idea about this year being the Internationational Year For The Elimination of Child Labour.
When looking at the recent popularity on social media, a quick analysis of the hashtag endchildlabour2021 shows that it had a reach of just over 500k in the last 7 days at the time of writing. To put that into context, the hashtag newshoes had a reach just shy of 400k.
What Can Be Done?
The first way anyone can help is by acknowledging that child labor is a problem, deeply ingrained into communities around the world. With so many people unaware of the state of the world, it is far more comfortable to ignore, but change is often the opposite of comfort.
Hold companies accountable, it’s not enough to educate yourself on the wrongdoing in the fashion industry when it comes to child labor, spread what you find on social media, tell people. Brands also need to be held accountable, they should be doing diligent checks and have their house in order. They are all well equipped with information and auditors to carry out important checks, no more excuses.
Humane Education (https://humaneeducation.org/10-tips-for-helping-end-child-labor/) provides some useful tips on how to help in the fight to end child labor. Many of them we have touched on, but it all starts with educating yourself not being shy when it comes to contacting retailers, contacting government leaders, and sharing your time and money wisely.
Spread the word, read the articles, share them (this one included). Talk to your friends, your family, and be mindful about where your clothes come from. Follow that thread, don’t be afraid to ask questions, and if the price of a tee is too good to be true, there is a good chance that it is – to the detriment of someone else. The world needs to change, so that someone is not a child, or anyone else.